British fashion designer Mary Quant has died at the age of 93.

Quant was credited with designing the mini skirt that helped to define the swinging 60s. She was “one of the most internationally recognized fashion designers of the 20th Century and an outstanding innovator,” her family said. “She opened her first shop Bazaar in the Kings Road in 1955 and her far-sighted and creative talents quickly established a unique contribution to British fashion.”

However, many people have disputed the fact that Quant was the one who invented the mini skirt. There were some who credited André Courrèges with the invention and others who credited John Bates.

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Who is John Bates?

John Bates was born on January 11, 1935. He was a British fashion designer who ran a boutique in London in the 1960s. He worked as a trainee journalist and office assistant in London from 1951 to 1952. From 1953 to 1955, he served in the British Army. From the next year, Bates apprenticed under Gerard Pipart at Herbert Sidon. In 1959 he began designing under the name Jean Varon.

Bates’ work in the 1960s was particularly modernistic. Some of the features of his style were bare midriffs, sheer panels, and very short hemlines. Soon he was designing high-fashion plastic garments. In 1965, one of his dressed was chosen as the Dress of the Year. It had a mesh midriff. It was donated to the Fashion Museum, Bath.

Bates’ most influential champion was Marit Allen, editor of British Vogue’s Young Ideas. Allen was the one who considered Bates the true inventor of the miniskirt.

Who is André Courrèges? 

André Courrèges was born on March 9, 1923. He was a French fashion designer who was known for his streamlined designs in the 1960s, influenced by modernism and futurism. He explored modern technology and new fabrics.

Also Read | Who was Alexander Plunkett-Greene, Mary Quant’s husband?

After studying to be a civil engineer, at the age of 25, Courrèges went to Paris to work at the fashion house called Jeanne Lafaurie. A few months later, he went to work for Cristóbal Balenciaga. He ended up working there for 10 years. He established his own fashion house in 1961. His simple, geometric, modern designs became quite famous. This included “little white dresses” and pants for women.

Courrèges worked for Balenciaga for 10 years mastering the cut and construction of garments. In 1961, Courrèges launched his own fashion house. He became known for extremely simple, geometric, modern designs, including the “little white dress” and pants for women.

Courrèges has accused his London rival Quant of merely “commercializing” the miniskirts that he claimed to have created. Courrèges presented short skirts, which were four inches above the knees, for 1965’s Spring/Summer collection. He had also presented “above-the-knee” skirts in the previous year. Valerie Steele stated that Courrèges was designing short skirts as early as 1961.